Blog / Dev Diwali guide
Dev Diwali in Varanasi: dates, what to expect and best viewing spots
Dev Diwali — the "Diwali of the Gods" — falls on Kartik Purnima, the full moon fifteen days after the main Diwali, and it's arguably the single most spectacular evening of the year in Varanasi.
What happens
Every ghat along the river is lined with thousands of lit diyas, turning the entire riverfront into a continuous strip of light visible best from the water. Cultural performances, processions and a larger, more elaborate Ganga Aarti take place at Dashashwamedh Ghat.
Best way to watch it
A boat is by far the best vantage point — from the water you see the full sweep of every ghat lit at once, rather than one crowded section from the steps. Boats for this specific evening should be booked several days ahead; by the evening itself, availability is scarce and prices from ghat-side touts rise sharply.
Crowd levels
This is the single busiest night of the year in Varanasi. Hotels near the ghats sell out weeks in advance, and the ghats themselves become extremely crowded by early evening. If you'd prefer the same visual spectacle with fewer people, arriving a day earlier or later still shows partially lit ghats with a fraction of the crowd.
Planning around it
Because of how far in advance boats and hotels book up, we recommend confirming your boat and hotel at least 2-3 weeks ahead of the Kartik Purnima date if Dev Diwali is the specific reason for your trip.