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Holi in Varanasi: Masaan Holi & Rangbhari Ekadashi guide
Holi in Varanasi doesn't start and end on a single day the way it does in most of India — the city stretches its celebration across nearly a week, and two of its traditions exist nowhere else.
Rangbhari Ekadashi
Roughly a week before the main Holi day, the city holds Rangbhari Ekadashi, when it's believed Lord Shiva brought Goddess Parvati to Kashi as his bride. A procession moves through the old-city lanes with abeer (dry colour) thrown in celebration, and it's considered the unofficial opening of Varanasi's Holi season.
Masaan Holi at Manikarnika Ghat
The most distinctive tradition is Masaan Holi, held at the Manikarnika cremation ghat the day after Rangbhari Ekadashi. Devotees play Holi with ash from the cremation pyres, framed as a celebration of Shiva presiding over the cycle of life and death rather than something morbid. It's an intense, deeply local experience — respectful observation from a distance is the right approach for most visitors, rather than jumping directly into the colour play.
The main Holi day
On the main day, colour play happens across the old city and ghats in the usual way — colour powder, water, music, and open hospitality, with strangers often pulled into the celebration. Shops close early, and the lanes near Kashi Vishwanath get extremely crowded.
Practical tips for visitors
- Wear clothes you don't mind ruining permanently — colour and ash both stain deeply.
- Keep phones and cameras in a waterproof pouch; water balloons are common even away from the main play areas.
- If travelling with children, the calmer ghats away from the old city core are more comfortable than Manikarnika or Dashashwamedh on the main day.
- Some bhang (a cannabis-based drink) is traditionally consumed during Holi in Varanasi — it's potent and unregulated in strength, so approach with real caution if offered.
If your dates line up with Holi, our tour packages can be adjusted to include or avoid the main colour-play areas depending on what you're comfortable with.